The History of the Ascent of Mount Toubkal

(By Hammadi Bennani)

One Hundred and Fifty Years Ago... The First European Explorers

On May 13, 1871, the explorers Hooker, Ball, and Maw (a British-led expedition) arrived in the village of Armed (Imlil region). Having recently visited the Himalayas, Hooker was struck by the landscape, believing himself to be back in Bhutan. They observed the presence of an ancient terminal glacial moraine and noted "a small moraine lake filled with debris and sediment"—a lake that has since disappeared, likely located just before the current path leading to Sidi Chamharouch.

The Feat of May 14th

Near Sidi Chamharouch, the travelers managed to slip away from their guides and successfully ascended Tizi n’Tagharat in the middle of a snowstorm.

Historical Note: At that time, the modern hiking path leading to the Toubkal Refuge did not exist. The only ancient trail was the one passing through the shrine of Sidi Chamharouch toward the Azib of Tifnout, a route that has linked the Amsouzert and Imlil valleys since time immemorial.

One cannot help but be amazed by the precision of their topographical observations made with such rudimentary equipment. They recorded 3,500m at Tizi n’Tagharat, an average altitude of 3,700m for the main ridgeline, and estimated the highest point between 3,800m and 4,000m—as Western visitors were still unaware of the exact location and altitude of Mount Toubkal.

The Conquest of the Summit

Later, following the Great War, officers, engineers, and scientists expanded the scope of these studies, often without leaving their names behind. In 1922, the Marquis de Segonzac attempted to identify and reach the highest peak of the Atlas. He climbed Iferouane (also known as Jebel Tifnout) and finally recognized the supremacy of Toubkal.

After numerous attempts by various expeditions, it was on June 12, 1923, that the ascent to the summit of Toubkal was finally crowned with success.